New Haven bakes hotter and stranger than New York. The pies come oblong, the crust charred, the tomato paste-bright. Then there is the white clam: freshly shucked, garlic, oil, oregano, no mozzarella if you do it right.
Pepe’s on Wooster Street is the mothership. Go for the clam. Stay for the argument with Sally’s down the block. That argument is the culture.
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