Porteño pizza is its own country: thick, heavy on the mozzarella, baked in a massive hall that never seems to close. Güerrín on Avenida Corrientes is the cathedral.
Order a muzzarella. Put a wedge of fainá — chickpea flatbread — on top. That is the move. It is not Naples. It is Buenos Aires, and it feeds the theater crowd until the small hours.
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