Pizzarium Bonci in Rome

Al Taglio

Pizzarium Bonci

Rome, Italy

Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Roma RM

Gabriele Bonci’s counter. Potato, mortadella, a rectangle sold by the gram.

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Roman al taglio is bakery pizza: a long pan, a light crumb, toppings that change with the case. You point. They cut. They weigh. You stand on the sidewalk on Via della Meloria and eat with your hands.

The potato slice is the quiet masterpiece. Everything else is a special.

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